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The Suits of…Suits: Louis Litt

Oh Louis…

Louis Litt is one of those characters that is like a wild roller-coaster ride. Chances are, if the show you’re watching has a character that drags you up and down emotionally it’s a good one. Louis Litt happens to be exactly one of those characters. He’s a neurotic mess but a damn good attorney and his choice of clothing reflects his neurotic personality as well as his attitude toward being a lawyer. Let’s get down to business because you’re about to get “litt up”!

Louis Litt

Louis Litt

Louis Litt

Where do I begin? While in my last post we learned that Harvey Specter’s sartorial style represented strength and confidence, Louis Litt represents chaos, eccentricity but also determination. Although he undergoes the least amount of style development in the show, he is a very fun character to follow and analyse. Louis is a loud, fast-talking, eccentric and Harvey might say “annoying” lawyer working for Pearson, Specter, Litt who specialises in corporate and financial crime.  Although he doesn’t serve as a competition to Harvey, he is quite the obstacle often having a good mixed bag of love-him-hate-him moments, going from a loyal brother to a deceiving and backstabbing prick. All of these characteristics can be observed in the way he dresses. I find that of all the characters on the show, Louis’s wardrobe is the most personal and stylish, implementing gratuitous use of color and flashy fabrics such as checks, windowpane and stripes as well as boldly patterned ties, unlike the relatively monotonous choices of Harvey Specter.

Louis wears Italian suits through and through with brands like Ermenegildo Zegna, Brioni, Armani Collezioni and Canali reigning king. It is even mentioned in one episode how Louis had a specific suit picked out for the day he becomes senior partner at the firm, with that suit being from renown tailor Brioni. Comparatively, Louis is not nearly as physically fit as Harvey, though he prides himself in treating his body like a “temple”, thus he has his suits tapered, some might say, too tightly, around the waist forcing him to walk straighter and with his chest pushed out and up. The lapels are classically Italian and quite wide adding symmetry to the wide shirt collars he prefers. The buttonholes are also located at a good medium, not too low and not too high, creating a tighter chest but still allowing him to successfully strut his ties. He seems to have quite the inferiority complex and compensates by having his suits make him seem more attractive. In his defence they still look good, and he’s a prime example that a well fitted suit can make any man look good no matter their weight or physique. His pants also serve as a way of slimming his body by having absolutely no break with the hem stopping far before the shoes begin.

 

Louis is eccentric and this is most visible in the way he accessorises his suits. His shirts always feature a french collar with the collar pins removed to flatten the surface of the collar out. There is something about this look that I enjoy very much and have started to appropriate it. The use of spread collars allows for Louis to create thick, bold knots, although sometimes his knots can be so large it makes the rest of the body see disproportionate, especially with his relatively short pants.

There is an even balance of plain white and patterned ties with stripes being the most prevalent pattern chosen. Louis will often go with contrasting tie and t-shirt patterns that upon initial gaze will seem unappealing and mismatched but upon further inspection will have you thinking “man it really works”. His ties are the most interesting aspect of his style combining Italian play of color with American office etiquette; lots of bold paisley, striped, medallion, floral and pin-dot ties can be seen regularly switching through episodes. His tie collection at home must be a regular smorgasbord of silky smoothness.

One thing that always bothered me, despite being almost unnoticeable, was his shoes. Somehow they always look too flat and unbecoming of the kind of person Louis is and the firm he represents. I always pictured him in beautiful cap-toe monk-straps with a nice heel to make him taller but somehow his shoes just seem so out of place. I guess that’s why they don’t put a lot of emphasis on them.

Louis being...well...Louis?

Louis being…well…Louis?

Louis goes through very little development up until maybe about the 4th season where he becomes name partner. I remember one episode in particular where he was sporting a blue suit, an emerald tie and a tie bar and I swear to Moses, I went out and bought a damn emerald tie because of that scene. The combination just had Louis oozing with power. He wanted to show everyone that he was now a part of the upper food-chain and he was there to stay. Ever since that development, Louis’s style has become significantly more “executive” for lack of a better term. Louis, while often providing plenty of comic relief, is also someone to be respected and even feared.

This is the only picture I could find with this particular outfit. Categorically stunning, especially seeing him in action as the new name partner.

This is the only picture I could find with this particular outfit. Categorically stunning, especially seeing him in action as the new name partner.

If I had to put Harvey up against Louis I’d have to say that I love Harvey’s cut of suit (peak lapels) but admire Louis’s sense of style (colorful and eccentric). If you combine these two together, you will definitely turn some heads no matter where you are in the moment. Louis is an eccentric and colourful character with a plethora of interests ranging from tennis to origami to the theater and ballet. He has an artistic sensibility and this reflects in his sense of dress as well as the way he presents himself.

Let’s sum up Louis’s style to get the basics down:

  1. Prefers Italian style tailoring, very tapered chest and waist, strong shoulders, along the lines of Zegna, Brioni and Canali
  2. Adds a bit of dapperness by going for checked, windowpane and striped suits
  3. Has his pants hemmed a little too short for the office, barely reaching down to his shoe
  4. Shows plenty of variety in terms of shirts, ranging from crisp white to bold bengal stripes, always with a flat, french collar (collar pins removed)
  5. Lots of colourful ties with bold patterns such as paisley or medallion
  6. My own recommendation but add a pair of dark brown or black double monk-straps for shoes

That basically gives you the boogie down on what it’s like to dress like our good friend Louis Litt. I love his style, I really do and he brings a sense of excitement to the office. I know that if I worked there, in between being scared shitless of him, I’d always be looking forward to see what he’s going to wear next. I hope you enjoyed this post and it helped you understand, in a bit more detail, how to replicate Mr. Litt’s style. It’s definitely worth replicating, seeing as it’s not as aggressive and I dare say “cocky” as Harvey’s style, thus more recommended for an office environment. People will just respect you for the way you dress. Thanks again for reading!

Love, light and style,

J

Style Examples:

Blue Suit in Super 110s from Suit Supply
W
hite Herringbone Twill Shirt from T. M. Lewin
Paisley Print Tie from Brioni
Gancini & Medallion Pocket Square from S. Ferragamo 
B
rown Double Monk Strap “Turin” from Crownhill Shoes

3 Comments

  1. B dawg

    I had to post to say I agree with a lot of what you said and share the same opinions about Louis crushing Harvey in style.

    I love Tom ford suits and prefer peak lapels too but even so, Harvey can’t style it right. Boring is what comes to mind and it’s because he sticks to dark blue or grey suit. White shirt and tie colour that matches the suit. With a white pocket square.

    You need to know what you’re doing in fashion to pull off different and more daring colour ties,shirts, pocket squares, suits and different materials like Louis Litt.

    Fun fact for you, they gave Louis clothes that were too small to make him look clumsy. I think that’s unfair cause he is a great lawyer but whatever

    • Cheers for the comment! I do agree that Harvey is rather conventional and mundane in his style but somehow I don’t expect more from him in the show. I think this was definitely done deliberately and doesn’t quite echo reality. Louis is surely the more fashion conscious one. Thank you for your comment!

  2. Darlene

    Omg, fashion people drive me nuts… to regular people it looks ridiculous that all his jackets look like they are busting at the button. A lawyer can’t afford a jacket that fits? Would it be ok if he were a woman to show back cleavage in a dress like Jessica or Donna wear? *face palm* fashion failure. Designers should be mortified at Louis character in denial with what size he wears

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